And to Drink …

For this spicy dish, pulsing with cayenne heat, I would reach for an old favorite, a moderately sweet German riesling. These lovely whites have three elements that blend well with heat and spice: low alcohol, lively acidity and sweetness. All are in a taut balance that will refresh and energize without clashing. Look for kabinetts or spätleses. If you have an auslese (10 years or older) you could try that as well; the more intense sweetness will have mellowed with time. Other options? The British wine writer Hugh Johnson suggests fino sherry, though I fear the alcohol level might be a bit high. This dish would also be an excellent time to break out a dry cider, which has about the same level of alcohol as pilsner and goes well with highly seasoned Indian dishes. ERIC ASIMOV