And to Drink …

What does one drink with spatchcocked chicken? What do you want to drink? Roast chicken is not merely forgiving of many wines; it engages in an all-out embrace of them. White? Sure. Red? Of course. Dry? Yes, indeedy. Sweet? Why not? Sparkling? By all means. All this is to say, you don’t need to worry about the nuances of matching wine to food. Instead, pick what you are most in the mood to drink, and enjoy. Me, I’ve got a bottle of lean, minerally chardonnay from Ebola-Amity Hills in the Willamette Valley of Oregon that I’ve been eager to open. But it could just as easily be chenin blanc from Vouvray, or a delicious Dogliani, made with the dolcetto grape. It’s up to you, as long as you like it. ERIC ASIMOV