And to Drink …

As Valentine’s day approaches, wine and chocolate have a way of finding each other like lovers whose attraction transcends their commitments. They don’t belong together, but they can’t help it. This is a pairing dictated by mood and opportunity rather than rationality, so drink what you like best and don’t sweat it. If you do care which wine actually goes well with chocolate, a small set of fortified wines beats all others. It includes Madeira, which is just wonderful, and some lesser known wines — Maury, Banyuls and Rivesalts — referred to collectively as vins doux naturels, that can be even better. Port and Marsala can also work well. I’m not a fan of red wine and chocolate, but if that’s what you prefer, look for big, port-like reds, an extravagant zinfandel, for example, or an Amarone. ERIC ASIMOV