And to Drink …

Sometimes the occasion can dictate a wine as much as the specifics of the flavors and ingredients. For this Chinese-style chicken dish, served cool in a relaxed, informal setting, I would look for a similarly light, easy-going wine, ideally with racy acidity to parry the mild, piquant spicing. I'm thinking of fresh rieslings, moderately sweet, like a kabinett or feinherb riesling from Germany. An off-dry Vouvray would be ideal — what's often called a sec tendre in the Loire, or even a slightly sweeter demi-sec. Grüner veltliners from Austria would be good, and if you are eating this midday, how about a silvaner? If you want a red, I would pick something from the Loire: A gamay or pineau d'aunis would be just right, though maybe difficult to find. ERIC ASIMOV